After leaving Udon Thani, we had one quick stop planned before heading into some seriously rugged territory. Our destination was the Ban Chiang Archaeological Site, one of Thailand’s most important prehistoric sites and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Ban Chiang Archaeological Site
Ban Chiang is famous for its ancient pottery and archaeological discoveries dating back thousands of years. The site provides an incredible glimpse into one of Southeast Asia’s earliest known settled farming communities.
We took a quick look, then drove across the Sakon Nakhon province and into Bueng Kan, the most northeastern province in Thailand. And that’s when things got interesting.
Taking on the Jungle
To reach Three Whale Rocks, we hired a local driver with a 4×4 truck.
The route quickly became rough, steep and decidedly jungle-like. The farther we went, the more remote everything became, with the truck bouncing and climbing its way through terrain that seemed better suited to an off-road vehicle than anything with a normal suspension.
Eventually, we reached the area around Three Whale Rocks.
And then we understood why people make the effort to get here.
Three Whale Rocks
Three Whale Rocks, or Hin Sam Wan, is one of those places that is almost impossible to appreciate from photographs alone.
The massive sandstone formations appear to rise out of the surrounding jungle like enormous whales swimming through a green sea. From the top, the views stretch across the mountains, forests and valleys of Bueng Kan Province.
Standing on top of the rocks, the scale of the landscape is incredible. There is jungle in every direction, with mountains fading into the distance.
And this was one place where hiring a drone videographer really paid off.
Seeing Three Whale Rocks From Above
From the ground, you can see the enormous rock formations, but the drone gave us an entirely different perspective.
Flying above the rocks revealed just how massive and unusual these formations really are. From the air, the three long sandstone slabs suddenly made sense – they really do resemble a family of whales swimming through the forest.
The drone footage also showed something that is difficult to appreciate when you’re standing on top of one of the formations: just how isolated these rocks are from the surrounding landscape.
It was easily one of the most spectacular aerial views of the entire road trip.
Hiking Across the Rocks
Of course, we couldn’t just admire the scenery from the first viewpoint.
We hiked across the formations, making our way toward the second “whale” and stopping at several viewpoints along the way. Each one seemed to offer a slightly different perspective of the mountains and jungle below.
There are some places where you can simply stop, look around and realize there isn’t much between you and the horizon.
It’s also one of those places where you want to keep the camera ready. The combination of enormous sandstone formations, dense jungle and distant mountains makes almost every direction worth photographing.
After the rough drive to get there, the hike was a great way to experience the area on foot.
Elephant Rock & the Crater Rocks
Before leaving the area, we also checked out a couple of other unusual rock formations nearby. Elephant Rock gets its name from its unmistakable shape, while the nearby crater-like rocks look almost as though giant holes have been punched into the sandstone. They were a fun reminder that Three Whale Rocks isn’t the only geological oddity hiding in this rugged corner of Bueng Kan Province.
Dinner Along the Mekong
By the end of the day, we were ready for something a little more relaxing.
We made our way back toward the Mekong River and settled in for a traditional Thai-style shabu-shabu hotpot at a small local riverside spot. A steaming pot of broth sat in the center of the table, and we cooked our own selection of meat, vegetables and other ingredients right at the table.
There’s something particularly enjoyable about this style of dining. You can take your time, drop in whatever you feel like eating, and let everything simmer together in the flavorful broth.
And the setting made it even better.
Back to Ubon
The next morning, it was time to begin the final leg of our journey. We drove southward through Nakhon Phanom and then stopped at Wat Phra That Choeng Chum Worawihan in Sakon Nakhon, an important Buddhist temple and one of the city’s best-known landmarks.
Finishing (another) Trip of a Lifetime
From Sakon Nakhon, we continued south and east, driving through Mukdahan and Amnat Charoen provinces before finally arriving back in Ubon Ratchathani.
And just like that, our 30-day Thailand road trip had come full circle.
We had covered thousands of kilometers, explored places we’d never seen before, stayed in everything from luxury resorts to very basic roadside accommodations, eaten our way through countless towns, climbed mountains, explored ancient historical sites, driven some seriously questionable roads and captured more photos and video than I can count.
Most importantly, we proved once again that some of the best experiences in Thailand aren’t necessarily found on the standard tourist itinerary. Sometimes you just need a car, a little time and a willingness to see where the road takes you.
After 30 days on the road, it felt good to finally pull back into Ubon Ratchathani – even if I was already thinking about where we would go next.
Backpack Benji’s Best Bets
- If you’re visiting Three Whale Rocks, I highly recommend hiring a local 4×4 driver rather than trying to tackle the rough roads yourself. The rugged journey is part of the adventure, but a capable local driver makes it much more enjoyable.
- And if you have a drone, bring it. Three Whale Rocks is one of those places where aerial footage adds an entirely new dimension to the experience.
- Finally, don’t rush away after visiting the rocks. The surrounding area and Mekong River provide a completely different experience — especially when you finish the day with Mu Kratha at a tiny local restaurant overlooking the river.
Where I Stayed:
We were staying at Baan Baan Rim Doi Resort Hotel, a very basic and somewhat primitive place, but its location was hard to beat. The property sits right along the edge of the mighty Mekong River.
It wasn’t luxury.