Some days on the road through Thailand seem to pack an entire history book, a nature documentary, and a postcard into a single day. This visit to Pha Taem National Park in Ubon Ratchathani Province was one of those days.
We started the day heading toward the Mekong River and one of eastern Thailand’s most spectacular natural landscapes. Pha Taem National Park is famous for its dramatic cliffs, unusual rock formations, sweeping views, and something even more remarkable — prehistoric paintings that have survived on the rock walls for thousands of years.
Hiking the Cliffs of Pha Taem
The hike through Pha Taem took us along the edge of the massive cliffs, with plenty of opportunities to stop and take in the scenery. The landscape here is very different from the lush mountains and waterfalls found in other parts of Thailand. Huge slabs of sandstone, weathered rock formations, and steep cliffs dominate the landscape.
And then there are the views.
From the cliff tops, the landscape stretches toward the Mekong River and Laos beyond. Standing at the edge of the escarpment makes it easy to understand why this area has become one of the most interesting places to visit in Ubon Ratchathani.
But the scenery wasn’t actually the oldest thing we came to see.
Prehistoric Paintings on the Rocks
Along the trail are ancient rock shelters containing prehistoric paintings. Some of the images depict animals, people, and other scenes from the lives of people who lived here thousands of years ago.
It’s one thing to see an archaeological site behind glass in a museum. It’s something completely different to stand beneath the same rock overhang where prehistoric people actually painted their images onto the stone.
The paintings are faded and weathered, but that somehow makes them even more fascinating. You’re looking at something created by people who lived in this region long before modern Thailand, modern cities, or even written history.
Pha Taem is essentially an open-air archaeological museum — except the ceiling is the sky and the walls are enormous sandstone cliffs.
Rock Formations and a Lot of Walking
Of course, the ancient paintings aren’t the only reason to explore the park. The hike itself takes you through an impressive collection of sandstone formations and natural features created by centuries of erosion.
Some rocks look almost sculpted, while others have been carved into unusual shapes by wind and water. The combination of cliffs, caves, forest, and enormous exposed rock surfaces gives the park a distinctly otherworldly feel.
After spending much of the day hiking around Pha Taem, it was nice to slow down for a while. We settled in with some drinks and a light dinner and enjoyed the chance to simply sit back and enjoy the evening.
Khong Chiam is particularly scenic because of its location near the meeting of the Mekong and Mun Rivers, and the area has a much more laid-back atmosphere than many of Thailand’s better-known tourist destinations.
But we weren’t finished sightseeing yet.
Wat Sirindhorn Wararam After Dark
Once the sun went down, we headed to Wat Sirindhorn Wararam Phu Prao, a temple that takes on an entirely different personality after dark.
During the day, the temple is impressive. At night, it becomes something else entirely.
The temple is illuminated with glowing paint, creating a dramatic glow against the darkness surrounding it. The effect is especially striking because of the temple’s location on the hilltop, where the lights, silhouettes, and night sky all come together.
And then there was the sky.
Away from the bright lights of a major city, the stars were clearly visible overhead. We spent some time simply taking it all in — the illuminated temple in front of us and a sky full of stars above.
It was a fitting way to end a day that had started with prehistoric artwork and ancient cliffs.
From Thousands of Years Ago to Tonight
What I enjoyed most about this day was the contrast.
In the morning, we were hiking past paintings created thousands of years ago and standing on cliffs shaped by nature over countless centuries. By evening, we were sitting in a modern hotel, enjoying drinks and dinner, followed by a visit to a beautifully illuminated temple beneath a star-filled sky.
In Thailand, you don’t necessarily have to visit a famous tourist destination to have an unforgettable day.
Sometimes you just need a good road, an interesting place to stop, and enough time to explore.
And Pha Taem and Khong Chiam delivered all three.
Backpack Benji’s Best Bets
- If you’re visiting Pha Taem National Park, give yourself plenty of time for the hiking trails rather than treating it as a quick photo stop.
- Bring water and sun protection. Much of the terrain is exposed, and the combination of heat and hiking can catch you off guard.
- Don’t rush past the prehistoric paintings. They’re one of the most remarkable parts of the park and give the landscape a connection to human history that goes far beyond the scenery.
- If you’re staying in the Khong Chiam area, consider visiting Wat Sirindhorn Wararam after dark. The illuminated temple and night sky make it a completely different experience from a daytime temple visit.
- And if you’re road-tripping through Ubon Ratchathani, put Pha Taem and Khong Chiam on your list. They’re a great combination of nature, history, culture, and scenery — all in one corner of Thailand.
Where I Stayed: Tohsang Heritage Khongjiam
Tohsang Heritage Khongjiam was a peaceful riverside retreat in eastern Thailand, offering beautiful views of the Mekong River and the mountains of neighboring Laos.
The resort’s relaxed atmosphere made it an ideal place to unwind after exploring Pha Taem National Park and the surrounding countryside. Its traditional Thai-inspired design blended naturally with the setting, while the riverfront location provided a wonderful backdrop for enjoying the scenery and watching life unfold along the Mekong.
For travelers looking to escape the crowds and experience a quieter side of Thailand, this resort makes a memorable base for discovering the Ubon Ratchathani region.