Getting to Moscow
Because of my military background, it took over two months and three attempts to secure my visa to make an unaccompanied trip to Russia, the largest country in the world.
I flew into Moscow, where four airports serve a population of more than 12 million residents. I took the express train from the airport to the city’s central metro station and then worked to figure out the mass transit system in order to find my hotel.
Navigating the Moscow Metro
There are more than 200 metro stations in Moscow, and each is uniquely outfitted and decorated. Some feature grandiose chandeliers, while others have music playing loudly.
The Moscow Metro is one of the best and most efficient in the world and is virtually always on time. I could not read the signs, so I worked to count the number of stops to know where to exit the train.
Moscow is certainly not a tourist-friendly city, and there were very few instructions, conversations, or signs in English. I stayed at the Moscow Marriott Grand Hotel, where there were warnings stating that if you had dark skin or were of Arab descent, you should not leave the hotel at night.
Help From a Local
Soon after arriving in Moscow, I met Natalya, a financial official who worked in the hotel industry. Although we had never met before my arrival, we quickly connected and she became an important part of my Moscow experience.
Meeting someone new who was willing to share her local knowledge and open doors to experiences I would not have had on my own made my visit to Moscow even more memorable.
Rooftop Views of Moscow
Natalya was able to grant me access to the rooftop lounge of the posh Ritz-Carlton, where the views of the Kremlin and the city below were unbeatable.
The Kremlin and Red Square are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We looked down at the wide streets, ruled by motorcycles racing through, with their mufflers booming echoes between the Stalin-sized buildings.
Russian Art and Georgian Cuisine
We toured the Tretyakov Gallery, where mysteries of the Russian soul come to life. The gallery was founded in 1856 and is hands down the world’s number one museum of Russian art.
From mysterious 12th-century icons to many politically charged canvasses, the collection is a rich and revealing insight into the history and attitudes of the long-suffering yet inspired Russian people.
That evening, we had dinner at a fabulous Georgian restaurant called Hachu. We enjoyed delicious khachapuri cheese bread made Adjarian Batumi-style and served with a raw egg on top that cooked and melted with the butter inside the giant puff pastry.
We also had marinated Georgian vegetables and a cast-iron skillet filled with delicious dolma – lamb-stuffed vine leaves served with matsoni yogurt – and finished with some house-made baklava for dessert.
Cruising the Moscow River
The next day we took a cruise along the Moscow River and witnessed unparalleled views of the sites on both banks from the river’s vantage point.
We visited the GUM Shopping Center, the biggest and most over-the-top mall in Moscow, full of ultra-high-end stores inside splendid architecture.
Next, we strolled through Gorky Park and then took a taxi out to the Exhibition of Achievements of the National Economy Park, an elaborate complex of massive buildings and statues where everyone was very dressed up and traditional Russian music was broadcast throughout, reminiscent of the passing era of Soviet glorification.
I was surprised to see a small tourist street with a handful of iconic Western fast-food spots.
I was surprised to see a small tourist street with a handful of iconic western fast-food spots.
Victory Day in Moscow
I was in Moscow on “V Day,” the annual Victory Day Parade displaying incredible weapons and showcasing Russia’s military might.
On the morning of V Day, I heard loud aircraft just above the hotel. I flung open the windows in my room to witness this amazing display of Russian air power, along with a few shots of missiles and military weaponry.
A Mad Dash to the Airport
On the morning of my scheduled departure, for some reason I thought my flight was at 1:20 PM and was taking my time at breakfast and in my room.
I had planned to take the train to the airport and slowly double-checked my flight schedule. I suddenly noticed that my flight was not at 1:20 PM but at 10:15 AM!
It was 8:30, and the airport was an hour away.
I threw my belongings in my backpack and raced to the front desk, asking if they had a car to get me to the airport. They graciously offered me a black Mercedes sedan with a driver who spoke zero English.
He drove me to the airport and seemed to go five miles under the limit the entire time. Every car was passing us, and I was sitting in the seat next to him with my stomach churning for him to speed along.
One Last Challenge at Customs
At airport customs, there was more of a delay due to slight confusion because I did not have an entry stamp into Russia associated with my Russian visa.
I had arrived in Russia directly from Belarus, creating an unusual situation for the border officials. The agent was confused and had to call a supervisor for clarification.
After that final delay, I just made my flight to Budapest and then back once again to Frankfurt, Germany.
A Lasting Memory of Moscow
Exploring Moscow was a thrilling adventure filled with contrasts and unexpected challenges.
From deciphering the metro system to navigating the language barriers, the city presented its complexities and rewards. Immersing myself in its rich history, vibrant culture, and breathtaking sights left a fond and lasting memory on my travel experiences.
Moscow, with its grandeur, resilience, and enigmatic allure, stands as a testament to the captivating spirit of Russia.
Where I Stayed
Moscow: Moscow Grand Marriott
I stayed at the Moscow Marriott Grand Hotel, a five-star hotel conveniently located on Tverskaya Street in the heart of Moscow, close to many of the city’s major attractions. The hotel offered a swimming pool, fitness center, spa and sauna, along with an executive lounge.
Because of my Marriott status, I received access to complimentary hors d’oeuvres and plenty of vodka each day. The breakfast was also amazing, with a huge buffet offering a wide variety of Russian and European dishes. It was definitely one of those hotel breakfasts that made it worth getting up early.
The hotel was an excellent base for exploring Moscow. After long days navigating the city, the comfortable surroundings, generous food offerings, and convenient location made coming back to the Marriott something I looked forward to.
Budapest: Hotel Sunshine
On my way back from Russia, I stopped in Budapest and spent the night at the Hotel Sunshine. It was a small, modern hotel in the Kispest area, away from the historic center but conveniently located near the Kőbánya-Kispest transportation hub, making it a practical choice for a short stopover.
The hotel offered comfortable rooms, Wi-Fi, air conditioning, and a small wellness area with a jacuzzi and sauna. The breakfast had a good selection of both hot and cold food.
For me, it was simply a convenient place to spend the night before continuing my journey. After the intensity of Moscow, a quiet night in Budapest was a welcome pause before getting back on the road.
Frankfurt: The Domicil Hotel
After my overnight stop in Budapest, I flew back to Frankfurt and checked into The Domicil Hotel Frankfurt.
Located only about 200 meters from Frankfurt Central Station, the hotel was a practical choice for just being in transit. The hotel offered straightforward accommodations, free Wi-Fi, a minibar, 24-hour reception, and a breakfast buffet.
My stay in Frankfurt marked another step toward the end of this European adventure. After traveling through Russia and Budapest, I was back in Germany and preparing for the next flight that would eventually take me home.