One of the things I love most about traveling through Thailand’s Isan region is that no two provinces are alike. I visit neighboring Sisaket and Yasothon, where I experience two completely different sides of northeastern Thailand. One stop offers quiet reflection at an ancient Khmer temple, while the other delivers one of the country’s loudest, most colorful, and most unique festivals.
Sisaket: Discovering Wat Sa Kamphaeng Yai
My first stop is Wat Sa Kamphaeng Yai, one of the finest Khmer temple complexes in northeastern Thailand. Hidden among peaceful countryside, the temple dates back to the 11th and 12th centuries, when much of this region formed part of the Khmer Empire.
Unlike the famous temples of Angkor in neighboring Cambodia, Wat Sa Kamphaeng Yai receives relatively few visitors. That makes exploring the ancient ruins even more enjoyable. Massive sandstone blocks, intricate carvings, and weathered doorways hint at the incredible craftsmanship of the Khmer builders nearly a thousand years ago.
Originally constructed as a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva, the complex was later converted into a Buddhist temple as religious influences changed throughout the region. Today, ancient Khmer architecture stands alongside modern Buddhist structures, creating an interesting blend of cultures and history.
Walking through the grounds, it’s easy to imagine what this temple must have looked like during its glory days. Although time has taken its toll, many of the detailed carvings remain remarkably well preserved. The peaceful setting offers a welcome break from the crowds found at Thailand’s more famous historical sites.
Wat Sa Kamphaeng Yai
Wanida Flower Garden in Sisaket
A visit to Wanida Flower Garden in Sisaket is a wonderful way to spend a relaxed afternoon in Isan. We visited the beautiful garden with two other couples, which made the outing even more enjoyable. The garden is filled with colorful flowers, landscaped areas, and plenty of picturesque spots to explore. Naturally, with six people in our group, there were plenty of opportunities for photos—and a lot of laughing along the way. We wandered through the gardens, enjoyed the flowers, and took our time soaking up the peaceful atmosphere.
Yasothon: Thailand’s Wild Rocket Festival
From the peaceful ruins of Sisaket, I continue north to the province of Yasothon, home to one of Thailand’s most unusual annual celebrations—the Bun Bang Fai, or Rocket Festival.
Every May, the normally quiet provincial capital transforms into a giant party as locals celebrate a centuries-old tradition rooted in agriculture and folklore. Before the rice planting season begins, villagers launch enormous homemade rockets high into the sky in hopes of encouraging the rain gods to send plentiful rainfall for the coming crops.
The festival combines religious ceremonies, ancient beliefs, music, dancing, colorful parades, and a healthy dose of friendly competition. Teams spend months designing and building their rockets, some stretching more than 20 feet (6 meters) long and powered by tightly packed black powder.
As the rockets blast skyward, thousands of spectators cheer while judges score each launch based on height, distance, and flight time. Not every launch is successful. Some rockets wobble wildly, fail to ignite, or dive spectacularly into nearby fields, much to the amusement of the crowd. In Yasothon, even failure becomes part of the entertainment.
The streets are filled with elaborate floats, dancers in vibrant traditional costumes, marching bands, food vendors, and music that continues well into the evening. It’s impossible not to get caught up in the festive atmosphere.
Two Provinces, Two Very Different Experiences
What makes this journey memorable isn’t just the destinations—it’s the contrast between them.
In Sisaket, I spend my time quietly exploring ancient stone temples built nearly a thousand years ago. In Yasothon, I’m surrounded by booming rockets, lively parades, and crowds celebrating one of Thailand’s most unique cultural traditions.
Both experiences tell different chapters of Isan’s story. One reflects the region’s ancient Khmer heritage, while the other celebrates traditions that continue to bring communities together every year.
It’s this variety that keeps drawing me back to northeastern Thailand. Around every corner is another festival, another historical site, or another hidden gem waiting to be discovered.
Backpack Benji’s Best Bets
- Visit Wat Sa Kamphaeng Yai early in the morning or late afternoon when the light is perfect for photography and temperatures are cooler.
- Allow plenty of time to explore the temple grounds—many of the carvings are easy to miss if you rush through.
- Plan your visit to Yasothon during the second weekend of May, when the Rocket Festival is typically held.
- Wear comfortable clothing, bring sunscreen, and expect hot weather during the festival.
- Keep a safe distance from the launch area and always follow officials’ instructions during rocket launches.
- Don’t leave without sampling Isan specialties from the many food stalls lining the festival streets.
From ancient Khmer temples to homemade rockets soaring into the sky, Sisaket and Yasothon prove that some of Thailand’s most memorable experiences aren’t found in the country’s biggest tourist destinations—they’re waiting in the heart of Isan.