After leaving Chiang Rai (with a brand new windshield due to a crack), we pointed the car south and settled in for another scenic drive through northern Thailand. Our route took us through Phayao Province, where rolling mountains, quiet villages, and endless green countryside reminded us why road trips are one of the best ways to experience Thailand.
A Stop at Ban Rong Hai Archaeological Site
Before reaching Nan, we made an interesting detour in Phayao Province to the Ban Rong Hai Archaeological Site in Mueang Phayao District.
This prehistoric burial site dates back more than 2,000 years and has yielded ancient pottery, tools, beads, and human skeletal remains that provide a fascinating glimpse into the lives of early communities in northern Thailand. An on-site museum displays many of the artifacts uncovered during excavations, helping visitors understand the region’s rich archaeological heritage.
It’s not a large attraction, and you won’t need hours to explore it, but it’s a worthwhile stop for anyone interested in Thailand’s ancient history. Visits like this are one of the joys of road tripping – you often discover places that rarely appear on the typical tourist itinerary.
After exploring the archaeological site, we continued our scenic drive through the mountains toward the charming city of Nan.
Wat Phumin: Nan’s Most Famous Temple
Our first stop was the stunning Wat Phumin, arguably the most recognizable landmark in Nan.
Unlike most Thai temples, Wat Phumin features a unique cruciform design with four entrances guarded by impressive naga staircases. Inside, the temple is best known for its centuries-old murals that beautifully capture everyday life in northern Thailand alongside Buddhist teachings.
The most famous mural, often called “The Whisper of Love,” has become an icon of Nan Province. Standing inside the temple, it’s easy to understand why visitors travel from across Thailand just to see these remarkable works of art.
The combination of history, architecture, and incredible craftsmanship makes Wat Phumin one of the highlights of any visit to northern Thailand.
Downtown Nan Comes Alive
As the sun began to set, we wandered through downtown Nan.
Unlike many larger tourist cities, Nan has managed to keep its authentic charm. The streets were relaxed, locals gathered in parks and cafés, and there wasn’t the overwhelming feeling of mass tourism found in some of Thailand’s more famous destinations.
It felt like a city that still belongs to the people who live there.
Exploring the Nan Night Market
As darkness fell, the Nan Night Market sprang to life.
This wasn’t one of those oversized markets catering to tourists. Instead, it felt like a true community gathering place where locals came to eat, shop, and spend the evening together.
The aromas drifting through the market made it nearly impossible to walk past without stopping.
We found:
- Grilled meats sizzling over charcoal
- Fresh tropical fruit
- Traditional Thai snacks
- Colorful desserts and sweets
- Freshly prepared street food at every turn
One of the best parts wasn’t just the food – it was the atmosphere. Families strolled through the market, children played nearby, musicians added a relaxing soundtrack, and everyone seemed to be enjoying a slow evening together.
It’s exactly the kind of experience we hope to find while traveling.
Watch the Video
This video follows our drive from Chiang Rai through Phayao Province before arriving in Nan. Join us as we explore the remarkable Wat Phumin and then spend the evening wandering one of Thailand’s most enjoyable and authentic night markets.
Backpack Benji’s Best Bets
- Visit Wat Phumin before sunset to appreciate both the architecture and the incredible murals.
- Spend time walking around downtown Nan instead of rushing from attraction to attraction.
- Come hungry to the Nan Night Market—there’s far more food than you’ll have room to sample.
- Try dishes that locals are lining up for. That’s usually the best recommendation you’ll find.
Where I Stayed:
Phuhunsa Boutique Hotel
We stayed at the Phuhunsa Boutique Hotel, a comfortable and modern boutique property that made a perfect base for exploring the city. Its convenient location allowed us to leave the car parked and simply walk to many of Nan’s most famous attractions.
Sometimes it’s nice to slow the pace of a road trip, and Nan immediately gave us that feeling.