Exiled from Thailand
After once again spending the maximum days allowed in Thailand and unable to secure another visa extension, I found myself needing to leave the Kingdom.
Rather than returning to the United States, I decided to hop over to neighboring Vietnam. Having visited twice before, this time I was determined to make the most of my full month visa and explore more of the country.
On this journey, I made it my mission to seek out some of the country’s most unique culinary offerings.
What began with a simple curiosity about coffee culture turned into a full-fledged adventure across the diverse cafes and street food stalls of Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, and beyond.
Starting in Ho Chi Minh City
My journey began in the bustling streets of Ho Chi Minh City.
It’s a city that pulses with energy—motorbikes whizzing by, the smell of street food filling the air. I had been here before, but it still felt fresh and exhilarating.
Coconut Coffee
If there’s one drink that screams Vietnamese summer, it’s coconut coffee (cà phê cốt dừa).
I first discovered it in a small café near Dragon Wharf, a historic site filled with riverside cafes, floating restaurants, and pedestrian walkways.
Imagine a thick, icy coconut smoothie topped with strong Vietnamese coffee, creating a creamy, sweet, and robust mix. The layers blended beautifully—slightly bitter coffee cutting through the richness of the coconut cream.
It was indulgent but refreshing, like a cross between a coffee milkshake and a tropical escape.
Hanoi, Family and Train Street
After a few days soaking in the city vibes, I boarded a flight to Hanoi, Vietnam’s capital, where I had the pleasure of spending time with my cousins.
There’s something special about reconnecting with family, especially over incredible Vietnamese cuisine. We dined at local restaurants, catching up and laughing over bowls of pho and plates of bun cha.
Hanoi also gifted me one of its most iconic sights—Train Street. It’s surreal watching the train narrowly pass through the street, barely clearing the nearby buildings.
Salt Coffee
In the historic city of Hanoi, I was introduced to salt coffee (cà phê muối), a creation that left me pleasantly surprised.
I’ll admit—I was skeptical at first. Salt? In coffee?
But this drink, served with condensed milk and just a pinch of sea salt, balances flavors in the most unexpected way.
The salt enhances the natural sweetness of the coffee, cutting through its bitterness and creating a smooth, caramel-like taste.
It’s like your taste buds go on a quick vacation from bitter to sweet to savory, all in one sip.
I enjoyed mine on a rainy morning while watching life unfold outside a café window—a perfect moment of serenity.
Ha Long Bay and Cat Ba
One of the highlights of this trip was my tour of Ha Long Bay and the Cat Ba Archipelago, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
It’s as stunning as the postcards show—karst limestone islands rising from emerald waters.
I made new friends and together we explored the bay, hiked hills, and discovered amazing caves.
The caves were otherworldly, with their intricate formations and expansive chambers. Sailing through Ha Long Bay felt like being transported into another realm, where nature reigns supreme.
Da Nang: Beach, Friends and a Little Bowling
After Hanoi, I made my way to Da Nang, a coastal gem where I spent several relaxing days.
Staying right on the beach, I indulged in daily swims, soaking up the sun and the sea breeze.
I also reunited with old friends I’d met in Laos and made new connections.
One fun day was spent bowling, an unexpected but fun break from the usual tourist activities.
Da Nang, with its laid-back vibe, proved to be a refreshing contrast to the bustling cities.
Egg Coffee
My trip came full circle as I flew back to Ho Chi Minh City for the final leg of my stay before heading back to Thailand, and I wanted to find a type of coffee I had only heard about.
If coconut coffee is summer and salt coffee is a surprise, then egg coffee (cà phê trứng) is pure decadence.
Born in Hanoi, this velvety drink dates back to the 1940s, when milk was scarce, and whisked egg yolk became the secret ingredient.
Served in a small cup, inside of a bowl of hot water to keep the drink warm, the coffee comes topped with a luscious, custardy foam made of egg yolk, sugar, and condensed milk.
The experience? Like drinking a liquid tiramisu.
Beneath the thick, sweet layer of cream is a strong shot of coffee, and when stirred together, it feels both indulgent and energizing.
The Ultimate Culinary Challenge: Beef Offal
Vietnam’s street food scene is unmatched, and trying beef offal (lòng bò) was a true test of my adventurous palate.
I found a bustling food stall in Ho Chi Minh City that served phá lấu, a dish made from braised beef organs simmered in a fragrant broth of coconut milk, star anise, and other warming spices.
I’ll admit, this isn’t for everyone.
The offal—consisting of intestines, heart, and other cuts—has a unique texture that ranges from chewy to tender. But the savory, slightly sweet broth tied everything together.
When dipped in crusty bread or slurped directly from the bowl, it was a flavorful experience unlike any other.
If you’re hesitant, think of it as a chance to truly immerse yourself in Vietnamese culture.
Offal dishes are treasured for their resourcefulness and deep, comforting flavors, and I walked away with a newfound appreciation for the diversity of Vietnamese cuisine.
Vietnam, One Bite at a Time
Vietnam once again showed me its beauty, hospitality, and diversity, leaving me with a renewed appreciation for the country.
From the frantic streets of Ho Chi Minh City to the family meals of Hanoi, from the emerald waters of Ha Long Bay to the beaches of Da Nang, this month became about far more than simply seeing Vietnam.
It became a journey of discovery through coffee, food, family, friendship, and adventure—one unforgettable taste at a time.
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